BEST PLACES TO SURF IN INDONESIA
Indonesia lures surfers from around the globe, many with visions of empty palm lined beaches, bamboo bungalows and perfect barrels peeling around a coral reef. The good news is that mostly these dreams come true, but just like anywhere else, Indonesia is subject to flat spells, onshore winds and crowding (particularly in Bali). A little research and preparation go a long way. A small board is usually adequate for smaller breaks, but a few extra inches on your usual board length won’t go astray. For the bigger waves – 8ft and upwards – you’ll need a ‘gun’. If you try to bring more than two or three boards into the country, you could have problems with customs officials, who might think you’re going to try to sell them. There are surf shops in major surf centres such as Bali, but don’t expect great boards for rent (about 50,000Rp per day).
NIAS ISLAND
The Indian Ocean roars onto Indonesia, arriving in one of the world’s most spectacular surf breaks here on lonely Pulau Nias: a sizeable but solitary rock off the northern Sumatran coast. Surfers have been coming here for decades for the waves on superb Teluk Sorake, which has deservedly kept this far-flung island on the international surfing circuit. Away from the waves, the ancient megalithic monuments and traditional architecture will satisfy the hunger of any culture vulture.
The locals have a reputation for being somewhat unfriendly and there can be some bad vibes in the water. However, if you come with a relaxed vibe then chances are you’ll get along just fine.
The tragic 2004 tsunami and the following aftershock, four months later, resulted in the deaths of over 600 people and the flattening of the capital city.
MENTAWAI ISLANDS
Though not a great distance from the mainland, the Mentawai Islands and its people were kept isolated until the 19th century by strong winds, unpredictable currents and razor-sharp corals.
It’s thought that the archipelago separated from Sumatra some 500,000 years ago, resulting in unique flora and fauna that sees Mentawai ranked alongside Madagascar in terms of endemic primate population. Of particular interest is siamang kerdil, a rare species of black-and-yellow monkey, named simpai Mentawai by the locals.
The largest island, Siberut, is home to the majority of the Mentawai population and is the most studied and protected island in the archipelago. About 60% of Siberut is still covered with tropical rainforest, which shelters a rich biological community that has earned it a designation as a Unesco biosphere reserve. The western half of the island is protected as the Siberut National Park.
Pulau Sipora is home to Tua Pejat, the seat of regional government and a surfer drop-off point. The archipelago’s airport is located at Rokot. With only 10% original rainforest remaining, it’s also the most developed of the Mentawai Islands.
Further south are the Pulau Pagai islands – Utara (North) and Selatan (South) – which rarely see independent travellers.
Change has come quickly to the Mentawai Islands. Tourism, logging, transmigrasi (a government-sponsored scheme enabling settlers to move from overcrowded regions to sparsely populated ones) and other government-backed attempts to mainstream the culture have separated the people from the jungle and whittled the jungle into profit. It isn’t what it used to be, but it is a long way from being like everywhere else.
Surfers comprise the other island-bound pilgrims, many of whom rank the Mentawais as the ride of their life.
A magnitude 7.7 earthquake hit the islands in October 2010, with a resulting tsunami killing more than 500 people and making more than 8000 homeless in the archipelago’s southern islands.
BATU KARAS
The idyllic fishing village and surfing hot spot of Batu Karas, 32km west of Pangandaran, is one of the most enjoyable places to kick back in Java. It’s as pretty as a picture – a tiny one-lane settlement, with two beaches that are separated by a wooded promontory.
In recent years Batu Karas’s popularity has started to take off as more (very tasteful) guesthouses have opened, but the village still retains a low-key, very relaxed charm. However, an Indonesian hotel group started (and then stopped) some heavy construction work in 2012, so the situation could change.
There’s good swimming, with sheltered sections that are calm enough for a dip, but many visitors are here for the breaks, and there’s a lot of surf talk
NUSA LEMBONGAN
Once the domain of shack-staying surfers, Nusa Lembongan has hit the big time. Yes, you can still get a simple room with a view of the surf breaks and the gorgeous sunsets but now you can also stay in a boutique hotel and have a fabulous meal.
But even as Nusa Lembongan grows in popularity each year, it remains a mellow place. The new-found wealth is bringing changes though: you’ll see boys riding motorcycles 300m to school, temples being expensively renovated, high-end luxuries being introduced, and time being marked by the arrival of tourist boats rather than the crow of a rooster or the fall of a coconut.
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