INDONESIA’S BEST BEACHES
Put simply for many people Indonesia is the beach. With some 17,000 islands stretching between two tropical oceans, it would be hard to imagine any other place on earth where land, sea and sky have combined to produce so many utterly breathtaking strips of sand of such total variety.
Tiny uncluttered coves lapped by crystal seas to long, devil-black stretches of wave and wind swept sand; there are party central tourist hang-out beaches and others whose soft, white sands are rarely smudged by a human footprint. Some you can reach by car or bus, others can only be got to by following the trade winds in a rickety old boat. But whatever kind of beach you find yourself at you’ll quickly come to understand why, for most people, Indonesia is the beach.
Gili Island
For decades, travellers have made the hop from Bali for a dip in the turquoise-tinted, bathtub-warm waters of the irresistible Gili Islands and stayed longer than anticipated. Perhaps it’s the deepwater coral reefs teeming with sharks, rays and reasonably friendly turtles? Maybe it’s the serenity that comes with no motorised traffic? Or it could be the beachfront bungalows, white sand, and friendly locals. Each of these pearls, located just off the north-western tip of Lombok, has its own unique character, but they have one thing in common. They are all hard to leave.
Gili Air is the closest to the mainland, with plenty of stylish bungalows dotted among the palms. Mellow Gili Meno, the middle island, makes for a wonderful chilled-out retreat.
Gili Trawangan (population 800), the furthest out, has been tagged as the ‘party island’. And with three weekly parties and a groovy collection of beach bars, you can get loose here.
Banda Island
Combining raw natural beauty, a warm local heart, and a palpable and fascinating history, this remote cluster of 10 picturesque islands isn’t just Maluku’s choice travel destination, it’s one of the very best in all of Indonesia. Particularly impressive undersea drop-offs are vibrantly plastered with multicoloured coral gardens offering superlative snorkelling and tasty diving. The central islands – Pulau Neira (with the capital Bandaneira sprinkled with relics) and Pulau Banda Besar (the great nutmeg island) – curl in picturesque crescents around a pocket-sized tropical Mt Fuji (Gunung Api, 666m). Outlying Hatta, Ai and Neilaka each have utterly undeveloped picture-postcard beaches. And Run, her gnarled limestone sprouting with nutmeg and cloves, is one drop-dead-gorgeous historical footnote. Were they more accessible, the Bandas might be one of Indonesia’s top tourist spots. Yet for now you’ll have these wonderful islands almost entirely to yourself.
Pantai Bira
Goats outnumber vehicles in the charmingly lethargic beach village of Bira, and it’s a particularly inexpensive spot for backpackers to take off their packs and chill out. The powdery white-sand beach gets spacious at low tide and there’s great snorkelling a short swim from the shore. There are several more remote beaches, hiking and a few caves with freshwater pools to explore in the surrounding area. The diving here is very good, with more fish than you’ll find at Bunaken or in the Togeans, but strong currents make it suitable only for experienced divers.
Rote
A slender, rain-starved limestone jewel with powdery white-sand beaches and epic surf, Rote floats just southwest of West Timor, but has an identity all of its own. From a tourism perspective it’s all about the surf, which can be gentle enough for beginners and sick enough for experts. Stunning Pantai Nemberala is home to the world-renowned T-Land break, and there are dozens of hidden white-sand beaches, aquamarine lagoons, and seldom-surfed waves on the beaches south and north of Nembrala. To find them you’ll roll through thatched traditional villages, over natural limestone bridges and through an undulating savannah that turns from green in the November to March ‘wet season’ to gold in the ‘dry season’ which also happens to be when the offshore winds fold swells into barrels. The whole experience lends a nostalgic Endless Summer feeling. And don’t overlook the tiny offshore islands where you can find gorgeous ikat, more silky white sand and life-affirming turquoise bays, and, of course, more surf.
Historically, the simple local economy revolved around the majestic and nutritious lontar palm. Then in the late 17th century, after a bloody campaign, Rote became the source of slaves and supplies for the Dutch. But the Rotenese also took advantage of the Dutch presence, adopted Christianity and, with Dutch support, established a school system that eventually turned them into NTT’s best-educated islanders. This allowed them to influence the much larger island of Timor both politically and economically for generations.
